petzl reverso vs atc guide

The auto locking feature when belaying your second directly off the anchor has another nifty capability that many folks are not aware of: rope ascender. Only for sport climbing this device is not suitable. The BD ATC-Guide is my go-to device. This makes it less useful for climbers doing more than just basic cragging, however if you don’t want to break the bank, it is an option worth exp, The DMM Pivot is another great option for trad climbers. Hannes 20 Jun 2012 In reply to CurlyStevo: I prefer the guide alasdair19 22 Jun 2012 Its integrated braking system is suitable for ropes with different diameters and rope properties. sale Current price: $22.46 Original price: $29.95 25% off. I have to … Before you climb, you should make sure that you have been properly instructed by an expert and that you follow all safety precautions. They seem to do the same thing and have the same features. One of the biggest advantages of the ATC Guide is that it can be used without karabiners. 5 years ago. The time tested choices here are the Black Diamond ATC Guide and the Petzl Reverso 4. During longer belay phases, however, a great deal of force is required with the braking hand. Both are great atc's from good companies . The single connection point is easier to use and more stable than the B-52, and the thick aluminum lasts longer than the thin material of the Reverso. Black Diamond ATC Guide vs. Petzl Reverso 4 – Comparison. Sure, you know your plaquette-style belay device (such as a DMM Pivot, Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso) works great when you’re belaying your second direct from … What Gear do I Need to Start? A decisive factor here is the safety buffer that is still available in the event of faulty belay behavior. Otherwise, the Pivot works about like the Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso 4, except that it seems to have a little better grip on skinny ropes. They are almost identical in design, save for the orientation of the guide hole (the Reverso’s is … Its intuitive use allows the control of the brake friction on the rope. How well are karabiners and rope compatible with each other? As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases if you decide to make a purchase through these links – at no cost for you! For this reason the ATC Guide by Black Diamond is not suitable for sport climbing. Reverso is lighter and can handle slightly thinner ropes. Petzl Reverso 3 vs. Black Diamond ATC Guide Curious if anyone has used both belay devices and if they liked one over the other. Newer options that are gaining solid following’s are the DMM Pivot which makes direct lowered off the anchor while in “guide mode” easier and the Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide that is optimized for working with skinny twin ropes. The home of Climbing on reddit. It works with a great rope range, weighs almost nothing, and can also belay in guide’s mode. A slightly fancier version of the tubular belay device has an extra loop of metal on the back, which allows it to function in “guide mode.” This enables you to belay a second from above with a greater degree of security. Here is an overview table of the most important features: A good belay device convinces by its blocking support. In the semi-automatic machine, the rope only runs through the device. The main difference is the orientation of the devices in autolocking mode. There is very little difference between the two and most people rarely use them for multi-pitch climbs anyway. A multifunctional belay/rappel device for 1 or 2 climbers, the Petzl Reverso belay device is a lightweight, durable option for cragging, multipitch climbing and mountaineering. ... Black Diamond ATC - Alpine Guide. Hi, my name is Martin. i find that the reverso is a pain to use as an ascender as the clip in hole orientates the device sideways. I have always loved the outdoors and I go hiking and rock climbing every chance I get. For not much more money than the Mantis, climbers can get a device that has increased functionality in a very compact package. This is due to the V-shaped braking grooves with their asymmetrical lateral notches. Rope diameter and karabiner play an important role in this point. Similar to the operation Release rope, the point Operation Release rope is an important criterion for our comparison. I recently needed an autolocker and had a bad experience with the BD ATC Guide. For this reason, the Reverso 4 can also be used to secure one or even two subsequent climbers. Related: The Delicate Dance of Multi-Pitch Passing Guide mode belay. Martin Lütkemeyer is a member of the Amazon Services LLC Affiliate Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to enable Web sites to earn advertising revenue through advertising and linking to Amazon.com. At only 59g, the Petzl Reverso 4 belay device is 25% lighter than the previous version yet offers the same versatility for belaying and rappelling. The information on climbtheearth.com only helps you to learn. The fact that too fast or uncontrolled release of the rope is a frequent cause of accidents is an important feature. For this reason, semi-automatic systems offer a large safety reserve, while autotubes only provide small safety reserves. Either will work if you anticipate doing lots of multipitch with one second. The position of the braking hand always affects the braking effect. Here the rope runs between the device and the karabiner. using the Reverso and found the device was constantly sticking. I'm a Petzl chick mostly, but don't want to be discriminatory. I use it exclusively when climbing for fun or when guiding. New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast. However, dispensing rope and hauling in rope are easy and without blockage. For most folks, this amount isn't a big deal, but for such a lightweight item, it's not an insignificant difference. This means that holding the fall is less dependent on your own strength. For years the Petzl Reverso 4 and Black Diamond ATC Guide have been two of the most popular belay devices among American multi-pitch climbers. but for everyday multipitch and alpine climbing they are very common. The device is made with stainless steel rather than aluminum, and, according to Edelrid, will last ten years with occasional use and two years with extreme use with dirty ropes. I own a reverso and it works great for me, but I bet I'd be able to make an ATC Guide work just as well. The specific design of the rope channels facilitates smooth rope glide and reduces wear. The brake teeth on the ATC-XP differentiate it from the ATC. Highly recommended and using it in guide mode is also recommended, just try it out first and be prepared for the rope to release faster than you expect. It's easy to understand why, they're both afforable, smooth, and reliable. If you are looking for a classic tube without autotube function, the ATC Guide from Black Diamond is the best choice. The operation of the Reverso 4* from the manufacturer Petzl convinces as a dynamic belay device. the atc guide is much easier. Links marked with * are affiliate links. sale Current price: $22.46 Original price: $29.95 25% off. Friend of mine tried to rappel on thick rope (11mm?) If the braking hand is in the correct position, the Autotuber will automatically lock. The device is ideal for beginners, as it is also suitable for small budgets. The blocking mechanism in semi-automatic machines is generated by clamping the rope inside the machine. ATC guide is more durable. Just figured I'd grab any first-hand experience from anyone before I decided which one to get. Cookies help us deliver our Services. As an important safety feature, it is important to know how well the device blocks in the event of a fall. You can’t beat the classic ATC for reliable belaying, and the Black Diamond ATC Guide belay device improves on the ideal design. Its ergonomic construction completes the belay device. Petzl's logic was the growing popularity of using a "master biner" on the anchor. However, the rope diameter should be between 8.1 and 11 millimeters. 1 color available. The current Reverso looks more like an ATC belay device, but with the same functionality." Why would you say that? On the flip side of this - the Reverso can't handle larger ropes. Secure yourself into the locking carabiner with a … 2 colors available. It can be used to belay a climber and to rappel, and in Reverso mode can be used to belay one or two second climbers. Rock Climbing Equipment List. The lightweight REVERSO is a multi-functional belay/rappel device designed for rock climbing, multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering. As if that were not enough, it is also important that the rope is held in the correct position. the atc guide is much easier. For this reason, the ATC Guide Tube is not suitable for sport climbing. And yes we are scared of falling. This page describes the first of a many of these belay devices, so called Reverso 1. Either a special and very high-quality karabiner is necessary or wear and tear of the karabiner occurs quickly. In the event of a fall, Autotubers create very strong friction to block the rope. Especially for beginners, the ATC Guide offers a perfect and well-balanced price/performance ratio. Before we go into the details here is the summary: Overall, the ATC Guide* is better suited for thicker ropes and beginners than the Reverso 4*. Due to the blocking support, all main automatic belay devices can be secured by body dynamics only. Petzl Reverso 3 vs. Black Diamond ATC Guide Curious if anyone has used both belay devices and if they liked one over the other. most people rarely use them for multi-pitch climbs anyway. The ATC Guide has a longer service life and is very robustly built – but it cannot be used for sport climbing because of the lack of brake support. I climb on 9.8 rope, and I'm looking into getting into top belaying and some more multi pitch. We compare the Black Diamond ATC Guide* with the Reverso 4* from Petzl. At first glance our testers thought they would prefer the Reverso because it's lighter and the shiny anodized finish looks cooler. The difference between Autotuber and semi-automatic is on the one hand the braking hand position. Step By Step Guide Using An Aperture-style Self-braking Belay Device (E.g. With the Autotube, the rope runs directly over the karabiner and accordingly leads to wear and tear. With a Tuber, an angle of 90 degrees between the guide rope and the brake rope is necessary to achieve a braking effect. The passage of the rope is therefore stopped abruptly. The Black Diamond ATC and ATC-XP are very similar in design and function and are both incredibly easy to use. The model ATC Guide is suitable for alpine climbing, multi-rope length climbing, bigwall climbing and is therefore considered a real all-rounder for beginners. If, for example, you want to let go of a climbing partner, the braking effect is increased thanks to the braking aid available. Some work better for smaller ropes like the Petzl Reverso while others are designed for slightly larger ropes like BD’s ATC. Newer options that are gaining solid following’s are the DMM Pivot which makes direct lowered off the anchor while in “guide mode” easier and the Black Diamond ATC Alpine Guide that is optimized for working with skinny twin ropes. Top 6 Best Rock Climbing Shoes for Beginners, Black Diamond ATC Guide vs. Petzl Reverso 4 - Comparison, Belaying heavy climbers: technique + special equipment, alpine climbing, multi-rope length climbing, bigwall climbing, alpine climbing, multi-rope climbing, sport climbing, Not the lightest tuber on the market, but also not the heaviest, Requires additionally up to 3 HMS carabiners, Dumping in the post-run mode requires know-how and concentration, Weight: 80 g (manufacturer’s specification), Cable thicknesses: single 8.9 – 11 mm, half and twin 8.1 – 11 mm, Material: hot forged and anodized 7075-T6 aluminum, Suitable for half ropes with a minimum diameter of 8 mm, Suitable for twin ropes with diameter minimum 7,5 mm, Suitable for single ropes with a minimum diameter of 8.9 mm, Weight: 59 g (manufacturer’s specification). Press enter for more information. Poniżej znajdziesz kilka obrazków zaczerpniętych z dokumentacji firmy Petzl pokazującej właściwe … The ATC Guide has deeper, longer, and wider-ridged outlets—the V-shaped part of the channel where the brake end of the rope exits the device. However, the handling and the general durability are slightly better with the Black Diamond ATC Guide*. The Reverso 4* from Petzl is a real all-rounder. Weighing only 65 grams, it's lighter than Black Diamond's 88-gram ATC Guide but slightly heavier than the 59-gram Petzl Reverso. Exactly here a small innovation shows up. On the flip side of this - the Reverso can't handle larger ropes. If you're not doing multipitch there is no reason to have one. How easy can this feature be implemented for beginners? Petzl has improved on the design of the Reverso, but the BD ATC-Guide is still a better device. If you want two seconds, get a GiGi. Petzl sells an overpriced biner that does this in one biner, ... One difference too is the horizontal guide mood loop of the Pivot vs the vertical guide loop of the ATC Guide. The Petzl Reverso is a tubular-style belay device that can be used in “guide mode” to belay a second from above. Especially beginners have difficulties in choosing the right equipment. When belaying with guide mode, the ATC-Guide or Reverso (not a standard ATC) is configured directly onto the anchor.In the event of a fall, the weight is transferred at a 1:1 ratio of force onto … Since the device does not block automatically, i.e. Which is the better belay device? Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. Clip a locking carabiner into the belay anchor point. Which is the better belay device? On the question of handling, we have looked at how the device fits in the hand, how easy or intuitive it is to use and how prone it is to handling errors. I'm a Petzl chick mostly, but don't want to be discriminatory. Later was added Reverso 2, which is Reverso 1 with some modifications, then followed a significantly different Reverso 3 and after that lightweight Reverso 4. Some have the auto-brake hook mounted horizontally while others are mounted vertically. For sheer versatility, whether you are alpine or ice climbing, heading up El Cap, sport or trad climbing or even TR-ing in the gym, ATC devices are impossible to beat. Press J to jump to the feed. Just figured I'd grab any first-hand experience from anyone before I decided which one to get. Compared to the conventional tube, the device blocks completely and alone. The Black Diamond ATC Guide (left) is slightly larger and heavier than its closest competitor, the Petzl Reverso (right). Related: The Delicate Dance of Multi-Pitch Passing Guide mode belay. While some devices block very well in hard and jerky falls, they show clear weaknesses in soft falls. BD ATC Guide vs Petzl Reverso. The specific design of the rope channels facilitates smooth rope glide and reduces wear. So I decided to try the Petzel "guide" style autolocking belay device. It worked fine with my 9.3 mm rope, but was nearly unusable in the gym with their fat, fuzzy top ropes. not really the most important feature, but if i lose my reverso 3 i will replace it with the guide. There is usually no contact with the karabiner. While semi-automatic machines lock independently of the braking hand, the Autotube requires the correct positioning of the braking hand. Whether it’s climbing, belaying a descendant or abseiling at the top of a route, the Reverso 4 convinces with all the facets that climbing has to offer. The ATC Guide has three ridges in the V-shaped outlet while the Pivot has two and a half, and the Reverso has two. It can be used to belay a climber and to rappel, and in Reverso mode can be used to belay one or two second climbers. With both designs, you run the rope through the belay device and secure both the device and the rope through a locking carabiner (see photo). Other than the name brand, is there any advantage to one over the other? Petzl Reverso Belay Device. Device dynamic securing is not possible with them. level 1. The price/performance ratio of the Reverso 4 is well balanced. The time tested choices here are the Black Diamond ATC Guide and the Petzl Reverso 4. If you are a climber, it is important that you can release rope quickly without neglecting the brake rope. Petzl Reverso, Black Diamond ATC guide, Wild Country Pro Guide, Mammut Wall Alpine wszystkie te przyrządy działają tak samo i są niesamowicie przydatne i uniwersalne. GriGri cannot belay two seconds, reverso and guide can... To be honest, buy whatever's cheaper. The Reverso and ATC Guide are hard to differentiate. Because the device makes a good impression when it is secured. However, if you are looking for a multifunctional device for all vertical activities, the Reverso 4 from Petzl is a must. The Petzl Reverso is a popular go-to belay device. The market is large and the offer is even larger. Disclosure: Links marked with * are Affiliate Links. They seem to do the same thing and have the same features. i find that the reverso is a pain to use as an ascender as the clip in hole orientates the device sideways. Then these articles could help you: Attention: You have to take care of your safety when climbing! However, special karabiners are sometimes necessary to ensure safe operation. How easy is it to control and dose the release speed? On the flip side of this - the Reverso can't handle larger ropes. The biner hole is parallel to the device on the reverso and perpendicular with the guide. As a further criterion, existing safety reserves play an important role. The ATC-Guide is my preferred device when using single ropes (i.e. The braking effect already starts at an angle between 10 and 45 degrees. We compare the ATC Guide* of the manufacturer Black Diamond with the Reverso 4* of the manufacturer Petzl. This allows a more controlled dumping maneuver, even with very thin rope diameters. particularly in guide mode. [1] It is designed to improve belay safety for the climber by allowing the belayer to manage their duties with minimal physical effort. Black Diamond ATC - Alpine Guide. The ATC Guide weighs 0.6 ounces more than its closest competitor, the Petzl Reverso (2.8 oz vs. 2.2 oz). It is also convincing thanks to its low weight of only 59g. The operation of the ATC Guide from the manufacturer Black Diamond is simple and even very intuitive. The ATC Guide has a longer service life and is very robustly built – but it cannot be used for sport climbing because of the lack of brake support. I'm slightly leaning towards the Reverso now, but I like u/maxxattk9's advice with flipping a coin. The focus is on jerky, hard and soft, slow falls. Reverso is versatile belay device made by French company Petzl. Belaying with the REVERSO The REVERSO is a belay/rappel device that uses a standardized series of movements associated with most tube-type belay devices. BLack DIAMOND ATC Guide belay device Auto locking plaquette-style belay devices (such as the Black Diamond ATC Guide, and Petzl Reverso) have become pretty much standard gear, for good reason. The lightweight REVERSO is a multi-functional belay/rappel device designed for rock climbing, multi-pitch climbing and mountaineering. Still undecided? Size-wise the ATC Guide is also a bit larger. The situation is different with the Autotube. Disclosure: This website is the property of Martin Lütkemeyer and is operated by Martin Lütkemeyer. Before we go into the details here is the summary: Overall, the ATC Guide*is better suited for thicker ropes and beginners than the Reverso 4*. If you're not doing multi pitch or top belaying I wouldn't buy one. But if you are, then it doesn't really matter which one you get. With a weight of around 80g, the tube is suitable for all types of rope, whether single rope, twin rope or half rope. Petzl Reverso, Verso, Grigri A belay device is a mechanical piece of climbing equipment used to control a rope during belaying . Although the device is not a world first, you can clearly feel that the handling and operation have been significantly improved. This is just a minor personal preference though, depending on how you will generally build your anchors. BD ATC Guide vs Petzl Reverso. The problem can be caused and even intensified by too much friction of the rope. Seconded. Not a big enough difference that I'd recommend one over the other. Due to its simple design, its operation is very clear and safe (provided that it is properly secured with the braking hand). Oh, and they come in different colors! They don't see as much use on big walls. By using our Services or clicking I agree, you agree to our use of cookies. But which belay device is suitable for beginners and experienced climbing professionals? Sure, you know your plaquette-style belay device (such as a DMM Pivot, Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso) works great when you’re belaying your second direct from … I'm looking at buying a bit more of an advanced belay device, does anyone know of any major differences between these two devices? This makes it less useful for climbers doing more than just basic cragging, however if you don’t want to break the bank, it is an option worth exp, The DMM Pivot is another great option for trad climbers. We compare the ATC Guide* of the manufacturer Black Diamond with the Reverso 4* of the manufacturer Petzl. The Petzl Reverso is a tubular-style belay device that can be used in “guide mode” to belay a second from above. Autotubers, therefore, offer a significantly higher safety reserve than is the case with classic tubers. We have divided the criteria of what makes a good belay device into blocking support, safety reserve, operation to release the rope, operation to release, handling and compatibility of karabiner and rope. Get whichever fits with your anchor style. Only upside to the GiGi is feeding slack is like butter, which saves strength and elbows. In the section Operation Rope dispensing, the focus is on how quickly and, above all, how easily rope can be dispensed. It proves a good handling and can convince with robustness. Small drawback: The rope run depends on the diameter and the nature of the rope.

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